Madison-Born Artist & Designer Bill Smith’s Visionary Designs
On this page:
The Man | The Book | The Exhibit | The Media | The Author
Celebrating
Bill Smith’s
Visionary Designs
William F. “Bill” Smith came from humble beginnings in Madison, Indiana, and rose to become a successful designer of fine and costume jewelry in New York City. His pieces adorned socialites, actresses and models; he also worked with fashion designers to create exclusive accessories for their clothing collections.
Known as Billy at school, Smith was one of the first Black graduates of Madison Consolidated High School in 1951. Completing his senior year there, he was a member of the track team, the yearbook staff, and the Industrial Arts Club, according to the school’s yearbook, the Mahisco.
Smith studied art and dance at Indiana University; in 1952, he was one of four men elected to the IU cheer team.
Smith left IU after three semesters and made his way to New York City. He supported himself by working several jobs, including as an assistant to a jewelry designer. He honed his skills and around 1958, with the support of actor Raymond St. Jacques, formed his experimental design studio, “Smith-St. Jacques.” While designing as “Smith-St. Jacques,” he was commissioned to work with costume-pearl company Richelieu. He found favor with the company’s president and, in 1968, was named vice president — a first for a Black man, and unusual for someone his age.
In 1969, Smith was commissioned to design each piece of jewelry worn by Katharine Hepburn and the production cast in the Broadway musical “Coco.”
In 1970, after winning the Coty Award for Excellence in Jewelry Design, Smith left Richelieu and worked for Cartier as one of its few named designers; he also worked for Ben Kahn Furs, Mark Cross Leather, and Hattie Carnegie, and designed a line of men’s clothing for Enka.
Photo courtesy Fort Wayne Museum of Art
Photos by Lindsay J. Holley, unless otherwise noted.
In October and November 2022, the Jefferson County Historical Society hosted an exhibit of its then-modest collection of Bill Smith’s pieces at the History & Art Center in Madison. Nearly 100 pieces are now part of the center’s permanent collection. ( Images from JCHS Exhibit)
Traveling Exhibit Information
The exhibit traveled to northeast Indiana, where it was on display at the Fort Wayne Museum of Art from May 25 through August 4, 2024. View the Curator’s Tour here.
For information or to schedule the exhibit for your museum, contact Spiller on her website here.
View the catalogue of Bill Smith’s collection here.
New Book
This full-color book is an excellent reference for costume-jewelry lovers and collectors. While this first edition is by no means a complete representation of Bill’s designs, it is the first catalog of his work and the most comprehensive look at his life and career to date. Nearly 300 photographs, 10 editorial fashion photographs (of the more than 200 that featured his work) and dozens of advertisements serve to authenticate Bill’s designs. The “tj” after his name in the title is what he used to set him apart from other famous “Bill Smiths,” designating him as Bill Smith, the jeweler.
‘Visionary Designs
by Bill Smith, tj’
Copies are available for $35 each in the Museum Gift Shop at the History & Art Center. To order a copy online, use the “Purchase” button below; shipping and handling fees are included in the price.
In the Media
See what’s being said about the artist, his legacy, and the book:
Louisville Public Media, Sept. 16, 2024
Louisville Public Media, Nov. 4, 2022
Jewelry Journey Podcast, Part I
Jewelry Journey Podcast, Part II
Spiller interview with Dawn Gee, WAVE 3 TV
About the Author
JoAnne M Spiller has been the Director of Education at the Jefferson County History & Art Center since 2000, developing and teaching programs on local history. She curated the permanent collection and the traveling exhibit of Bill’s jewelry for the Center. This book has been a work of “heart” for nearly four years. She and her husband, Doug, love to travel the world and visit their children, Jenna and Kendall.
Follow her journey with Bill Smith at JoAnneSpiller.com.
